i used A mode, ios=200，aper=8.0, shutter speed changed from 1/320 to 10s throughout the whole process .
never did i see the orange triangle , and the holy grail button just won't  light up.
why?
ps:i tried initialize metadata , did not work.

sorry ，my fault. it seems that the lrt only allows M.mode,and can only shot by magiclantern.

"Holy Grail" Sequences have to be shot in M-Mode in order for the Holy Grail Wizard to get enabled. All other sequences can of course be edited in LRT too, but then you won't need the Holy Grail Wizard, thus it's disabled.

"Holy Grail" Sequences have to be shot in M-Mode in order for the Holy Grail Wizard to get enabled. All other sequences can of course be edited in LRT too, but then you won't need the Holy Grail Wizard, thus it's disabled.

thanks alot

This post was last modified: 2015-07-31, 18:07 by ThomasB.

Hi Gunther,

first I appreciate your work a lot - great that you are tackling the problem several of us are thinking of but never laying our hands on, since the implementation is scaring off.

I'm shooting since roughly half a year with a Sony RX100M3 (internal app just changing the shutter-speed) and already created some timelapse-sequences with LRT3 (where the detection of shutter-speed-changes worked and was compensated for). I'm one step ahead of upgrading to an Olympus E-M1 and wanted to buy your LRT4 Pro - but with updating and trying the trial of LRT4 I'm now a bit scared off from both (since I would love to shoot more advanced things), and now I'm facing the "problem" that is already written in several threads here (greyed holy-grail wizard-button):

I still don't get the difference of shooting in aperture-priority or shooting in full manual and just changing the shutter-speed by hand/tablet. Why is the latter one supported by the visual workflow and being compensated with the holy-grail wizard - and the first method not?

Unfortunately the majority of people not working with Nikon have the problem that dslrdashboard is not supporting their camera-brand and they cannot use the 2- or 3-way ramping. Thus they have to work in aperture-priority to automatically compensate for the total brightness or in full manual and touching the camera between the shots. But when the first one is not longer supported by LRT4 there is only the option for the latter one - a huge tradeoff.

Is there any misunderstanding on my side?

Thanks and best
greetings from Berlin
Thomas

If you use A-Mode, the camera will write discrete values into the exif data, but make smoother adjustments (not in 1/3 steps). So the real brightness will differ from the exif values. Applying the Holy Grail to those sequences would introduce flicker, instead of removing it.
But don't worry - if you shoot in A-Mode, just skip the Holy Grail Wizard, just use the visual deflicker, it will work perfectly.

Indeed you could even skip the HG-Wizard for real Holy Grail sequences too - and just rely on the visual deflicker. This would mostly take one or two "refine" steps for the deflicker then, that's why it's recommended to use the HG-Wizard for those sequences - but not for sequences shot in A Mode! Just try it!

Hi Gunther, thanks for the fast reply!

If you use A-Mode, the camera will write discrete values into the exif data, but make smoother adjustments (not in 1/3 steps). So the real brightness will differ from the exif values.

Does this mean that in A-mode when set to 1/25s for example, the camera writes 1/25s in the exif data but sometimes uses 1/24s or 1/26s (and therefore HG-wizard would introduce flicker), while in M-mode and set to 1/25s it will always expose for 1/25s? Or do you mean the shutter-time differences of for example 1/25s to 1/20s resulting in 1/5EV not equal 1/3EV?
I mean when shooting in M-mode the HG-wizard can obviously compensate for changes not beeing multiples of 1/3EV (for example in your video-tutorial with the tajinastes when changing from 1/25s to 1/20s, i.e. 1/5EV). This is why I don't get the difference of handling in the HG-wizard when shooting in A-mode compared to M-mode.

Don't get me wrong - I really have no clue and as a physics postgraduate I would love to understand the mechanisms since I think this helps me reaching the aims.
At least I (and obviously some other guys, according to the constantly recurring questions on this topic) understood your tutorials (for example "Shooting the Holy Grail: 2-way ramping of Exposure and ISO") exactly as what the camera is doing in A-mode with Auto-ISO.

Indeed you could even skip the HG-Wizard for real Holy Grail sequences too - and just rely on the visual deflicker. This would mostly take one or two "refine" steps for the deflicker

I already did exactly this procedure in LRT4 for 2 timelapses - giving nice results (but was wondering if the results will be even better with the HG-wizard?). But the tradeoff is - as you already mentioned - running the deflicker three times in total over the complete scene and every time creating the visual previews. As you can imagine this is pretty time-consuming

Thanks in advance and keep up the good work!
Best
Thomas

Holy Grail wizard will just give you faster results.

In A-Mode, the camera writes discrete values like 1/20, 1/25 to exif but in reality does 1/20, 1/21, 1/22, 1/23, 1/24, 1/25.

There is a huge difference using the holy grail method then using A-Mode and ISO-Auto. The latter would use the camera metering - this is not sited for time lapse since it might introduces severe flicker and clipping.

The Holy Grail Method has been developed especially for time lapse shooting. If you use the Auto-Holy Grail with qDslrDashboard, this will deliver way better results (mostly perfect results) since it uses a sophisticated histogram analysis to decide when to adjust the camera.