Hi Gunther, thanks for the fast reply!
Quote:If you use A-Mode, the camera will write discrete values into the exif data, but make smoother adjustments (not in 1/3 steps). So the real brightness will differ from the exif values.
Does this mean that in A-mode when set to 1/25s for example, the camera writes 1/25s in the exif data but sometimes uses 1/24s or 1/26s (and therefore HG-wizard would introduce flicker), while in M-mode and set to 1/25s it will always expose for 1/25s? Or do you mean the shutter-time differences of for example 1/25s to 1/20s resulting in 1/5EV not equal 1/3EV?
I mean when shooting in M-mode the HG-wizard can obviously compensate for changes not beeing multiples of 1/3EV (for example in your video-tutorial with the tajinastes when changing from 1/25s to 1/20s, i.e. 1/5EV). This is why I don't get the difference of handling in the HG-wizard when shooting in A-mode compared to M-mode.
Don't get me wrong - I really have no clue and as a physics postgraduate I would love to understand the mechanisms since I think this helps me reaching the aims.
At least I (and obviously some other guys, according to the constantly recurring questions on this topic) understood your tutorials (for example "Shooting the Holy Grail: 2-way ramping of Exposure and ISO") exactly as what the camera is doing in A-mode with Auto-ISO.
Quote:Indeed you could even skip the HG-Wizard for real Holy Grail sequences too - and just rely on the visual deflicker. This would mostly take one or two "refine" steps for the deflicker
I already did exactly this procedure in LRT4 for 2 timelapses - giving nice results (but was wondering if the results will be even better with the HG-wizard?). But the tradeoff is - as you already mentioned - running the deflicker three times in total over the complete scene and every time creating the visual previews. As you can imagine this is pretty time-consuming
Thanks in advance and keep up the good work!
Best
Thomas