This post was last modified: 2014-07-23, 23:22 by solraun.

I am just starting out with DSLRDashboard, but I was wondering two things:

1) Why is it restricted to RAW + JPG?
I am planning to create a timelapse spanning 6-10 days, and while I know RAW would be better, I can put 64'000 pictures on one 64GB card if I use JPG only. The Camera will be unattended for the whole time.

2) The timelapse would span multiple sunset/sunrises, and while I know that this might be a somewhat extreme use case, why am I restricted to either adjust exposure down or up, and not both? I realise that for most timelapses you only want the correction to happen in one direction, but the option would be at least nice.
(Or does the reverse corr. feature do exactly that? if I put it to 100%?)

Anyways, thanks a lot! I like both LRTimelapse and DslrDashboard.

Edit:
3) personally, I would like to use either Av/Tv also. right now it's kind of restrictet to Aperture full open (if I am correct). For that specific project I'd rather keep the exposure time fixed to 5'', because it' a pretty busy place. also the interval will be 20'', so with that in mind 1/300 would create a lot of flicker (not exposure related, but movement in the scene related)

This post was last modified: 2014-07-26, 10:37 by Gunther.

Hi,
1) you can set it to RAW+JPG and then, after launching LRTimelapse Mode change it back in Camera as a workaround.
2) Set the Reverse Correction to 40%, that should do what you want.
3) I'd not recommend using Av/Tv, since it will introduce a lot of flicker. But you don't need to have the interval full open, this is another recommendation to avoid flicker.

The DslrDashboard solution is currently not designed and tested to run over several days unattendend. This might work, but has not been tested yet.

Thank you for the crazy fast reply!

The workaround sounds fine, I will try out the reverse correction.
About the flicker, in a first test I was using f22, as silly me left the nd when I went to set the camera up. f22 did not result in any flicker for me, maybe because it was lowest possible (and thus as stable as full open).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nRgrDIpxAT8
the bumps and shakes come from people walking into it and the sound being too loud. it was just a preliminary test set up in a hurry.

I will keep you posted whether it works with long time lapses or not.

In my experience f/22 might deliver bad flicker as well. Additionally you'll get diffraction blur.
The first result however does not look bad Just try to prevent the camera from shaking.