This post was last modified: 2016-10-12, 20:45 by chasg.

Hi Guther,

I shot a 1000 frame HG dawn sequence, on a Sony camera with a manual lens (which I've done many times before), and I can't get the Holy Grail Wizard to work.

And I didn't get the automatic "you don't have aperture info in EXIF" dialog (so I then set the aperture to f/8 in LRT using Lens Tagging).


I can see definite exposure changes in the LRT columns, and can see exposure jumps in the preview.

The only thing different from my normal way of shooting, is that I set the camera in Aperture priority (first test, usually all manual and control shutter and ISO by hand). I've read several threads in the FAQ section of this forum discussing similar problems. I'm willing to deal with the issue using deflicker, but it makes much more sense to me to have precise exposure control using the Holy Grail Wizard, and leave deflicker to minor flickering issues.

How does LRT know a camera was in Aperture Priority and then not activate the HGW? I figured EXIF changes were EXIF changes. And, if I laboriously put in the two and three star tags by hand (over 1000 frames, tedious, I'll really miss that Wizard!), will LRT use them properly?

Cheers!

Chas

If the camera was in Aperture Priority the HG Wizard will not be activated because it wouldn't make sense.
Just use the visual deflicker.

Thanks for the answer, Gunther.

The exposure jumps are too much for deflicker, unfortunately :-(

I'm afraid I don't understand why it wouldn't make sense. To my mind, I've got a sequence of photos with shutter and ISO changes, just as if I had shot in manual. Exposure changes are 1/3 of a stop, mostly in one direction (a dawn shoot).

Any chance of a future upgrade to LRT to allow us to use the HG Wizard with sequences shot in aperture priority? (Though I'm willing to believe there is a factor I'm not yet understanding).

Cheers!

Chas

This post was last modified: 2016-10-15, 19:50 by Gunther.

Most of all cameras make continuous changes when in A mode, but write discrete values to the exif data. This makes the exif data differ from the captured brghtness when in A mode. The holy grail approach would make things worse in that case instead of helping (like it does in M mode). Probably your camera is an exception (which one are you using?)

I can assure you that deflicker will work. Just do deflicker refine steps until the pink curve is smooth.

That's good info to know, thanks very much. And I know you know how my camera behaves: it's a Nikon D750 (bought on your recommendation, which I read about here :-)

I've tried several deflicker sequences, still getting noticeable, if smaller than when I started, exposure jumps :-( No worries, it was a secondary camera (that's why I felt comfortable experimenting).

Thanks again!

Chas

Strange, since I shoot with D750 too... Next time better shoot in M mode!

sent mobile via tapatalk...

Oh yeah, definitely, I've learned my lesson :-)