Has anyone been using this method suggested by Gunther:

http://www.dangelanuss.com/Flickerfree.html

(Using plastic inserts to hold the aperture open on Nikkor lenses using the twist method to eliminate flicker.)

If so, what has been your experience, any problems, suggestions,etc.

Thanks,

Peter

This post was last modified: 2013-10-26, 00:05 by wing_nut.

I had the chance to try this method out. Used a Nikon 14-24 f2.8 , 24-70 f2.8 on D700, D5100 D90 and D80 bodies. I will try to test the 10.5mm 2.8 as well as these are the only lens I primarily use on timelapses.

There has been no noticeable difference from my tests. You will still have SOME flicker. (primarily form exposure changes.) Sometimes LRT can take it all out, other times I have to bring it to GBdeflicker.

But I do believe that flicker is not a problem in LRTimelapse when done correctly. Also a thing to note that I most often shoot wide open anyways.

Sorry i cant provide you with sample footages. Although i will try to get a hold of a manual focus lens and see if it does make indeed make a difference.

So from my tests: not the magic pill some people are hoping for.

So from my tests: not the magic pill some people are hoping for.
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Thanks for the reply. I have had to do the two pass method on a few clips - LRT deflicker folloed by GBdeflicker. That works, but it is an extra step. I do most of my editing with FCPX, but I have to go to Premiere Pro CC to run GBdeflicker.

I do have a couple of older PC Nikkors, a 28mm amd a 35mm, that have completely manual apertures. Not too wide, but an option for some sequences.

Please do report back here for any findings you've made. I am also curious about manual aperture lenses' effect on flicker.

Good luck.