Hi everyone,

Like many people here, I'm particularly interested in astro timelapses and 'holy grail' timelapses.

I've tried to do several 'holy grail' timelapses (day to night or night to day), but I haven't been able to get it quite right. I've also tried using qDSLRdashboard with my Nikon Z6 but have found it quite buggy and it often crashes, even though I have it connected with USB to my camera.

I heard from Timestorm Films that he uses a Sony A7RII and A7RIII to do his 'holy grail' timelapses, and then smoothes the exposures and deflickers in LRTimelapse.

He said the way he does this is by using a setting on the Sony A7 cameras called "autoISO minSS" that when used with Aperture Priority mode allows for a 'holy grail' timelapse. The maximum shutter time is set (i.e. 20 or 30 seconds) and the maximum ISO the camera is permitted to use is also set. During sunset, as the light darkens, the camera ramps the shutter speed to the maximum value, then ramps the ISO setting. The reverse is true during a sunrise. Here is a video on youtube that explains it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ONggTOYtHdk

Has anyone else tried this method for a 'holy grail' timelapse? If so, what was the result?

I am aware of the reasons against shooting with auto metering in Aperture Priority mode posted by Gunther here: https://forum.lrtimelapse.com/Thread-why...-a-av-mode.

However, I have also seen Martin Heck achieve some really incredible outcomes using the method above:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6TqGLBY4hI at 0:03, 1:49, and 3:15
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kdJbeM6Ql4 at 0:00, 1:19, and 3:48
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CI8P7gMJbVg at 0:53, 1:55, 3:54, and 4:04
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IM4hhIwlYpY at 4:08, 4:49
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jh9EcKlgMU at 0:49

Could anyone do me a favour (if you live outside the city) and try to auto expose a single shot with the method above to see if you can get the Milky Way with this "autoISO minss" method?

This post was last modified: 2020-06-08, 14:16 by Gunther.

I can't tell about the Sony, but the Nikon Z cameras also allow for long exposures with Auto ISO. Still for me the disadvantages of not being able to see and control what the camera is doing while it's shooting makes this a way inferior technique in my optinion. I know about Martin using this extensively, but then also he's the only one I know working that way for important stuff... :-)

With the Nikon Z6 for me qDslrDashboard on Android is rock stable. I do all my commercial stuff with it and didn't fail me in the last years. Mostly I'm using the internal wifi. It's important, that you leave the screen of the Smart Device on in order to prevent it from closing the app while shooting. I think you should give it another try.

Here's a video using the auto iso/min ss with the Z50 (Nikon) MOVIE function: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZEYAY7D...e=youtu.be obviously - too much noise after second 39

Thanks for your feedback Gunther. I didn't know about keeping the screen on. What smart device do you use? With my Google Pixel, I have to reboot the phone before I use the app, then I can't 'minimise' the app or it crashes. The app keeps working if the screen is off, but I can't 'open' the phone again because as soon as I do to see the current exposure of the photos, the app crashes. I'd love it to work, but it's been really frustrating.

The other issue I have with qDDB is that it doesn't ramp the exposure quickly enough. I've tried using the 'Auto NTC' function but it just allows the image to get too dark as the sun sets. Any idea why this would be?

I have also tried using the Nikon Z6 in the same way Martin does, and while it does allow for long shutter times (up to 30s), it doesn't turn up the ISO high enough. At 30s, the maximum ISO reached is 320. At 25s, the maximum ISO reached is 500, etc. It appears that Nikon has built in a 'maximum exposure value' to the camera.

Hi chrisstratton,

The method described works well for cities (like the video you posted), but unfortunately does not work for full day to night showing the milky way.

The behavier that you explain with your pixel doesn't seem normal to me. Check that you are using the latest version of qDDB and the latest OS on the Pixel. I'm working with different Android Devices here and never had such problems. It might also be something to discuss with Zoltan, the developer of qDDB, he is very helful. Contact him via dslrdashboard.info.

Also I've never had any trouble with qDDB ramping too slowly if you use common intervals (<30sec). Just make yourself confident with the settings that you have in the LRT page. This can be important, if you are very close to the equator where the light changes very rapidly. You might want to set the number of frames in which qDDB does the adjustments lower than 3 then. But also: even when shooting close to the equator, that was never something I had to do.

I think you should familiarize yourself more with qDDB, it's really worth it. I have a tutorial on: https://lrtimelapse.com/gear/dslrdashboard/
And in my new Book I cover all of this in even more detail: https://lrtimelapse.com/buy/ebook/

Thanks Gunther.

I've checked that I have the latest update to the phone and the lastest version of the qDDB app. I have been using an interval of 34 seconds with up to a 30 second shutter time. JPEGs set to basic and small.

I might have to buy a cheap Android phone with a large battery and try QDDB on that. I'll also contact Zoltan regarding the ramping speed.

There is a device called 'Unleashed' by Foolography. It also has 'holy grail' ramping, however doesn't have the option for a external trigger from motion control. I've heard that they are working towards interfacing their app with the Syrp app. That would be great - a reliable, portable, relatively low cost, and fully automated exposure ramping and motion control system. I'll wait to see it working though.

This post was last modified: 2020-06-17, 21:15 by lkunl.

If you use A mode and ISO Auto min ss with Sony camera. It will give you a better exposure result when you use external intervalometer. If you use internal intervalometer it will mostly give a under exposure result when scene is too dark ( milkyway timelapse etc). I recommend use "Entire Screen Avg" metering mode while do timelapse using A mode get correct exposure and to prevent blow out highlight. I use this method often and it give a great result.

HI! Ikunl! I had a shooting experience about Day to night.I used your method with a external intervalometer .It was a moonlit night before midnight.At night, The exposure still didnot work.The ISO moved up to 1600 and never goes higher.The exposure is too dark.Do you need anohter settings？For example，AE tracking sensitivity？My camera is A7RIII ,my lens is sony 14gm 1.8.Have u ever had the same problem?