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While setting the camera to aperture priority when shooting day to night or night to day situations might work in some scenarios, for several reasons it's not the recommended way to shoot transitions.
Bottomline: if you want perfect results and reliable results, go for the holy grail method. LRTimelapse's "Holy Grail Wizard" will then do the rest and create a smooth transition. I've developed this method over the last years exactly because of the deficiencies of the A/Auto-ISO approach.
The "Holy Grail" approach is simple: you just shoot in M-Mode and change the settings for Exposure, ISO and Aperture manually or via an app like qDslrDashboard.
Check out my tutorial, to learn more about this approach: http://lrtimelapse.com/gear/dslrdashboard/
- When using A/Av (same goes for S/Tv and P) you rely entirely on the internal metering of the camera and this is not very consistent when it gets dark (the images will get too bright). Metering stops working at a certain darkness also. Additionally the metering will get distracted by every change in luminosity, most likely causing bad flicker. The flicker could of course be fixed with LRTimelapse, but only as long, as the images are not blown out.
- In A/Av mode you will only be ramping the exposure, not aperture and ISO and you cannot define any boundaries for the settings (for example to prevent the shutter time to get longer than the interval).
- If you use ISO-Automatic, to have the ISO increased as it gets dark, the camera will aim for short exposures, since this mode has been designed for handheld shooting. This means, it will quickly increase ISO to the highest possible, instead of increasing the exposure time first, as we would prefer it.
- When the exposure times get longer, the camera won't respect your interval - this means it can even happen, that the exposure times get longer as the interval. You have no control about this.
- You won't be able to intervene when the shots get too bright or too dark.
Bottomline: if you want perfect results and reliable results, go for the holy grail method. LRTimelapse's "Holy Grail Wizard" will then do the rest and create a smooth transition. I've developed this method over the last years exactly because of the deficiencies of the A/Auto-ISO approach.
The "Holy Grail" approach is simple: you just shoot in M-Mode and change the settings for Exposure, ISO and Aperture manually or via an app like qDslrDashboard.
Check out my tutorial, to learn more about this approach: http://lrtimelapse.com/gear/dslrdashboard/