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Case Relay - Disappointed / Other experiences?

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#1 storm303
Just wanted to share my detailed experience and see if anyone else has any other experience with Tether Tools Case Relay, or any trouble shooting options since I am stuck with this hunk of junk. Contacting TetherTools was not productive and they say their product cannot meet the specified operating temperature range, but will not refund my money or send a replacement. They will offer a store credit, but all their products are really expensive versions of simple things I can get cheap elsewhere and don't really need.

The Case Relay is basically a tiny 1200mAh battery on the end of a USB cable 5V input with a charge control circuit and a voltage regulator output to give your camera around 8V. You attach 5V power banks to its input and it passes that power to the camera, or charges itself if it needs to. The idea is a sort of infinite battery, so you can swap power banks while running from the in cable tiny battery briefly. The second part of the product is an adapter that amounts to a standard DC barrel plug and 20 inches of 22 AWG of wire with a cheap dummy plastic battery and contacts on the end- this makes it connect with your specific camera via the battery compartment. For all these fairly cheap components, you pay ~150 USD. The product is supposed to work simply, robustly, and in temperatures from -4 to 104°F.

In the field, the Case Relay must be fully charged before use for some reason, and if it's tiny battery depletes it is supposed to begin recharging itself AND power the load from your much larger battery on the end of the USB cable. I found this did not always work, and I used adequate current (2.1A) output from a large USB power bank with NO auto shutoff feature. I found the unit about 75% reliable in normal conditions with that setup. The green light indicating ready would be on, at start of shoot then the battery would sometimes discharge and not recharge itself even if the power bank stayed on- then would stop delivering pass thru power to the load (poor design logic).

In the mountains, and below 35°F, the unit always fails after a few shots and the camera immediately begins rebooting. This happens repeatably with the exact same equipment that works (usually) fine at low altitude and higher temperatures. While all lithium batteries have lower capacity and surge current capability in the cold, there is NO good reason the unit should not work at its listed temperature capability. After each failure, swapping out the Case Relay in the setup for my own home built voltage regulators, everything worked flawlessly.

Customer service directly told me they think 40°F is too cold for a product rated to below 4°F. I use a small pouch with hand warmers for my motor drives and batteries / Case Relay, and it wasn't enough to help in any configuration I could find that felt safe for the battery.

Meanwhile, the five dollar (USD $) XL4015 based regulator circuit I put in a two dollar plastic housing works flawlessly in even extreme temps, takes up less space, regulates better, and costs $140 less.

Anyone have a different view? I am stuck with a paperweight I guess. I will probably open the unit to see what cheapery is in it that makes it not be able to work at its specified temp ranges. I suspect cheap battery or cold solder joints.
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#2 c_joerg
Thanks for the interesting report.

I would have swapped the hardware at least once to see if it is not broken.

I think the idea with the built-in battery is very good. I also operate my cameras with a DC / DC converter directly on a power bank. The problem is: if the power bank is empty, then it switches off immediately. If the camera writes to the memory card at that moment, then the whole file system can be destroyed. The battery in the case relay should ensure that the voltage drops slowly so that the camera can perform a reasonable shutdown.
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#3 Henry
Case Relay is charging 10 times more than what I bought from Chinese website for $20, which is a dummy batter with voltage regulator. I have used this Chinese dummy battery with my Nikon cameras in lower than -10deg C. I usually connect it to the 95W/HR v-mount battery that is also powering my motion control. I have used both these equipment running from the same battery for more than 8 hours and still the battery had charge left. You can try using the v-mount batteries that is now available in small size.
Henry
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#4 c_joerg
Quote: Case Relay is charging 10 times more than what I bought from Chinese website for $20, which is a dummy batter with voltage regulator.
Yes of course, but without a buffer battery and with the problems I had already mentioned…
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#5 storm303
Indeed I did try to swap hardware, but Tether Tools customer service was not interested in doing so as a simple exchange and they said the return policy was past. Their tech support says the product can not perform in these temperatures despite the product specification. So, they will not treat this as a warranty issue. They will give a store credit if I pay to ship the item back and then pay to ship a new one to me, but at this point that seems a waste of money if their own tech support are not confident in the product working for my use. I could push the issue further but will just let it be. Maybe I will sell it cheap to someone who will use it in normal temperatures where it works fine.

My alternate power solution has been to build three voltage regulators (for two cameras and a backup) that work very well in all temps and are very small, and I power them with the large TalentCell 30000mAh power banks that run my motion control. I can get 7 hours easily on a cold night, perhaps more, from the single battery with motion control on flat ground.

The point about problems if an accidental unplanned shut down is true, but I have never had loss of power ruin the file system yet when letting a camera shoot until battery depleted. I aim to just use very large power banks (30000mAh, and they can be daisy chained if one is low on charge.

Perhaps I will build a back up battery for my own regulator circuits that is very small and uses better logic than the Case Relay circuit. The Case Relay should not shut off pass thru power just because its tiny battery forgets to power itself in certain circumstances. The backup battery should charge in parallel with the load, and only power the load upon power loss, not disconnect the load if the tiny backup is not charged. Two separate functions are needed: backup battery, and pass thru. That would be much more reliable.
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#6 Gunther
Please let us know, if you come up with a diy solution!
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#7 storm303
I will definitely post if I make a DIY!

I decided to run some tests on the Case Relay using my freezer to cool it, set to about 5°F, and the cable insulation broke first before I could even do my tests. So I sacrificed the rest of unit to learn more about it. The PCB has sloppy soldering and a missing capacitor component that might be intended as not installed, but strangely had messy solder on the pads. The circuit board looks to cost no more than 15$USD and the USB wires actually hook up data and the wires looked like 26-28 AWG- too tiny but at least the run is short. The lithium battery was not standard 3.7V standalone cells in series as expected, but a small brick that measures ~8.2V when full and probably has internal cells of less voltage. It looks like a LiPo as opposed to Li-ion but not certain. The battery is behind a switch directly attached to the output which explains why if the input power is disconnected for any reason by the circuit and that little battery loses charge, you get a failure even if you have a giant full power bank sitting on main input.
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#8 Ken Toney
I have same issue, they sent a new Relay and still doesn’t work properly. This is very frustrating so I guess I’ll just use the battery grip.
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#9 Sheeba
... look at this solution.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E7xPEBXO9-k
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_rZAZtUsJCE&t=31s
also works at -15°C !!
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#10 c_joerg
The big advantage of the Case Relay (if it works) is that it contains a small battery. When the power bank is empty, the voltage drops slowly and the camera has enough time to shut down properly.

The problem with power bank solutions is that when the power bank is empty it switches off immediately. The camera will then not be able to shut down properly.

Just happened to me again. There is a high probability that this will happen when recording, because that is where the greatest current consumption is. After that, I had to reformat the SD card and all the photos were gone.

I therefore only prefer a solution with an additional backup battery.

...also check out: