Hmm... it does for me... weird...

got it to work in sunrise mode thanks..

I've been researching Holy Grail solutions for my D800 as well, were you able to get around this? If not, Gunther- please let us know of any suggestions!

Cheers

Just use the latest qdslrdashboard from http://dslrdashboard.info

This post was last modified: 2014-05-01, 05:18 by smoch125.

Hi Gunther,

I was very excited to try this but have had some issues. First, to clarify- when you say "Start the interval timer on the camera," I assume you're referring to the timelapse mode of my d800? If so, I found that the setting is unfortunately greyed out whenever I am connected to my phone with a usb otg cable. Do you know of any ways around this? I'm becoming increasingly frustrated with the D800's lack of flexibility with this timelapse stuff..

Thanks!

Edit-just saw your comment on qdslrdashboard and played with it a bit, seems the d800 just has this limitation? I'm open to any suggestions!

No, you usually should preferrably use an external timer to trigger the camera. The timelapse mode is a totally different story and rather worthless.

Not just D800, every Nikon DSLR has this limitation. If you connect the camera with USB the interval function will be grayed out.

Hi,

1) I noticed that qDDB supports bulb mode (for some cameras). Recognizing that you have previously stated that an external intervalometer is preferable, is there any possibility that qDDB might support Auto Holy Grail using bulb mode, instead of M in the future?

I have used the Granite Bay Software in the past and this implements this very well, if not too well. It changes the Tv for pretty much every shot, making the sequence more or less unusable in LRTimelapse. I really like the idea of only changing when the luminance is 1 stop too low or high (or even more if shooting in RAW) and then compensating by one stop as has been implemented in qDDB.

2) Given that qDDB uses jpgs for calculating luminance, is anything done in the software to 'standardize' the jpg? I ask because obviously the camera settings influence the appearance of the jpg.

1) Controlling Bulb Mode accurately is not possible on Nikon cameras. So I'm not a big fan, since the Exposure/ISO ramping works very well.
2) Set the camera settings to neutral, to get neutral prewievs.

This is really sweet, now that I've had time to play with it on my laptop. It would be most helpful if there was an intervalometer feature that was integrated though with interval ramping. Right now you have to set your interval to 33 seconds or so on an external intervalometer if you want to use long shutter speeds for Milky Way later, and that results in clouds and what not being jittery before or during sunset. If you could have an interval of 10 or 15 seconds during the day that gradually changes to 3 seconds at night with 30 second exposures it would be extremely useful. I'm not sure how you would then trigger the eMotimo or slider motors, maybe a bulb cable from the PC sync port of the camera running to the eMotimo to know the shutter was finished?