Posts: 13,923
Threads: 188
Joined: Feb 2011
Normally this works. Maybe you cut the wrong wire? Best use a circuit indicator to find out which is the AF-wire.
Intervalometer blocks the camera for too long - how to get around it?
Posts: 4
Threads: 1
Joined: Jul 2016
Thanks Gunther for such a quick response !
I tried all three wires and tested them all to correctly identify the AF function wire. Had the same problem with 2 different intervalometers so it leaves me feeling I must be making a simple mistake somewhere ? I am assuming that if you disable only the AF wire as described the shutter firing function should not be affacted, is that correct ?
I'm keen to progress with this because I am finding that ISO ramping is blocked when using qdslr and my canon 6d for holy grail stuff. Do you think it is worth purchasing that pixel intervalometer you have mentioned in your article, could that maybe solve the dark time/ramping problem ?
Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.
G
I tried all three wires and tested them all to correctly identify the AF function wire. Had the same problem with 2 different intervalometers so it leaves me feeling I must be making a simple mistake somewhere ? I am assuming that if you disable only the AF wire as described the shutter firing function should not be affacted, is that correct ?
I'm keen to progress with this because I am finding that ISO ramping is blocked when using qdslr and my canon 6d for holy grail stuff. Do you think it is worth purchasing that pixel intervalometer you have mentioned in your article, could that maybe solve the dark time/ramping problem ?
Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.
G
Posts: 13,923
Threads: 188
Joined: Feb 2011
As far as I know, for Canon it's sufficient to just cut the AF wire. For nikon you have to connect AF and Shutter, because Nikon does not fire without the af being triggered. You might try that on your canon too (don't think it would do any harm) - maybe it helps, but as I said, normally it's not needed.
Posts: 202
Threads: 64
Joined: Sep 2014
Just made my first Nikon cable, and there is a problem: when I plug the cable in, the camera spontaneously fires (over and over, if set to continuos).
I double-checked which wire is which with a multi-meter, and even cut out my first attempt and soldered it again (very carefully, definitely no shorts, I believe!). Same result.
I'm going to assume I've made a mistake. Let me approach this from the opposite direction: if I wanted this behaviour, which wires would I solder together?
Thanks in advance for any insights!
Chas
I double-checked which wire is which with a multi-meter, and even cut out my first attempt and soldered it again (very carefully, definitely no shorts, I believe!). Same result.
I'm going to assume I've made a mistake. Let me approach this from the opposite direction: if I wanted this behaviour, which wires would I solder together?
Thanks in advance for any insights!
Chas
Posts: 13,923
Threads: 188
Joined: Feb 2011
Definitely something went wrong there... This should only happen, if you connect all three pins.
To solve your problem, try to connect everything with crocodile clips first. Start with the GND wire, then connect the others as shown in my diagram.
To solve your problem, try to connect everything with crocodile clips first. Start with the GND wire, then connect the others as shown in my diagram.
Posts: 202
Threads: 64
Joined: Sep 2014
I pulled the cable apart again, and I couldn't reliably duplicate the problem, nor could I get the hack to work consistently. I'm not sure if the cable is bad, or if I accidentally melted the wires further along inside the cable (I did have to hold the soldering iron a longer time than normal on one of the wires), so I gave up and binned the cable.
No worries, I bought three, just to experiment with this hack :-)
No worries, I bought three, just to experiment with this hack :-)
Posts: 27
Threads: 6
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 27
Threads: 6
Joined: Oct 2016
Hi guys,
it has been great to follow this forum
i am new to LRT and qDSLRDashboard
so had many question to ask.
but i decided to get through the forum from beginning to end
and so fat it has answered all my doubts and what i need to do.
I have a Canon 5D Mk3, and using the Aputure AP-TR3C made in China, the cheap one
and so i opened it up, and from where the cable goes in, and solders onto the pcb
i desoldered it.
Works perfect.
Earlier i was getting the screen after a dead time of 5 seconds.
now i get it in 2 seconds, But to be safe selected 3 seconds.
Actually, the first time i desoldered the focus wire from where the wires go from PCB to the mechanical contacts
and it did not work because my logic was that if i de solder at mechanical contacts end, it is same as desoldering form PCB. Wrong.
then i desoldered it from the PCB. and it worked.
Want to thank Gwegner for amazing inputs.
Thanks
it has been great to follow this forum
i am new to LRT and qDSLRDashboard
so had many question to ask.
but i decided to get through the forum from beginning to end
and so fat it has answered all my doubts and what i need to do.
I have a Canon 5D Mk3, and using the Aputure AP-TR3C made in China, the cheap one
and so i opened it up, and from where the cable goes in, and solders onto the pcb
i desoldered it.
Works perfect.
Earlier i was getting the screen after a dead time of 5 seconds.
now i get it in 2 seconds, But to be safe selected 3 seconds.
Actually, the first time i desoldered the focus wire from where the wires go from PCB to the mechanical contacts
and it did not work because my logic was that if i de solder at mechanical contacts end, it is same as desoldering form PCB. Wrong.
then i desoldered it from the PCB. and it worked.
Want to thank Gwegner for amazing inputs.
Thanks
Posts: 2
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2016
