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Intervalometer blocks the camera for too long - how to get around it?

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#1 Gunther
Many external intervalometers insist in half pressing the shutter to trigger the autofocus before every shot. This often blocks the camera for a couple of seconds. During this time you won't see a preview, emptying the buffer will be delayed and you won't be able to control the camera externally.

In the following article, I've explained how to tweak any intervalometer easily in order to get better performance for time lapse shooting - especially with short intervals and when shooting the holy grail.

Intervalometer hack for for better time lapse experience

Update: An even better choice would be the LRTimelapse Pro Timer Free project, see: https://lrtimelapse.com/lrtimelapse-pro-timer-free/

Please discuss any questions related to the intervalometer hack in this thread.
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#2 milo42
I understand this very good video but perhaps I am misunderstanding something?
I always shoot my timelapse with manual focus as I don't want the focus changing during the shoot and especially if its getting dark the autofocus may hunt in this case the camera never auto focus's so this isn't an issue?.
So does this hack still apply when using manual focus?
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#3 Gunther
Yes, I'm only talking about the camera in manual focus mode! All those problems happen, when the camera is in manual focus mode.
Of course we never shoot time lapse with AF on.
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#4 macronencer
Thank you for this helpful video and information, Gunther. I'm quite interested to discover how much it will help me.

I noticed that the wiring requirements are different between Canon and Nikon; do you (or anyone else here) have any idea what kind of hack would be required for a Sony a77?
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#5 leandroprz
Thanks for the tutorial, Gunther.

For those who don't want to cut the cable, you can open the intervalometer and desolder it from the PCB. I followed this instructions: http://www.photocornucopia.com/1002.html
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#6 Gunther
Thanks for this link, but here are my 3 reasons why I don't recommend that approach:
  1. I explained the modification of the cable because that way, you only modify a 5$ cable and can easily go back to normal mode with another cable and don't ruin the regular function of your intervalometer.
  2. Apart from this, this will probably only work on intervalometers with fixed cable so easily, by those with a soldered 2.5mm jack, it will be more difficult.
  3. It will only work with canon the way it's described, since for nikon again, you will have to joint AF and trigger signals.
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#7 Govdoc64
I am using a Nikon D300 with  a 10 pin connector for my dlc programable intervalometer DL-1586.  Is there a problem with this one or is there a hack for it?

Jim
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#8 Kerry
OK, Like quite a few people here we use a manual lens. IE a 55mm 1.2 Nikkor on the non CPU lens mode with a D810 and the 10 pin intervalometer or the qdslr app. Does the D810 recognize the manual settings and not do the redundant auto focus signal?
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#9 Gunther
Quote:I am using a Nikon D300 with  a 10 pin connector for my dlc programable intervalometer DL-1586.  Is there a problem with this one or is there a hack for it?
It's exactly the same procedure. The cable itself has only 3 wires. Just buy a spare cable and try the modification described in the article.
This is the cable for the D800 D700 D300 D300S D4 D3S D3X D3 D200: http://amzn.to/1Jq6VfR
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#10 Gunther
Quote:OK, Like quite a few people here we use a manual lens. IE a 55mm 1.2 Nikkor on the non CPU lens mode with a D810 and the 10 pin intervalometer or the qdslr app. Does the D810 recognize the manual settings and not do the redundant auto focus signal?

From my experience it does not make a difference, if you shoot with a manual lens - it's the same as if AF is turned off on a AF Lens. The camera will still react to the focus signal from the intervalometer and clear the preview, block the USB etc. - it has nothing to do with the attached lens or the Autofocus itself. But please make the test that I showed in the video for yourself.
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