No, I understand that. I just thought it might be convenient to be able to trigger the camera with a corded shutter release, while still having the Pro-Timer connected, independent from the timer intervalometer. So a user could set up the camera settings while still having the timer connected. But that may not be important to many others beside myself.

Thanks for a very elegant solution and making it available for all. I have assembled the hardware and it works just as you described. Very through programming. Logodeckel has agreed to manufacture a case and send it the USA. Very courteous of them. Best Regards, as always.

"[size=small][font='Open Sans', 'Myriad Pro', Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]May I suggest if you would consider partnering with a manufacturer so that we can purchase a LRTimelapse Pro-Timer with a reasonable cost."[/font][/size]
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It's not really hard to build the timer, if you know someone that has ever soldered something, just ask him or her for some help.

But yes, we are thinking about offering a kit where you don't have do solder anything. But this will still take some time and of course you will miss all the fun building it... :-)

This post was last modified: 2017-02-14, 15:24 by MMeier.

Give it a try to build it on your own! As Gunther wrote it is not very difficult. I only soldered one cable before I built the timer. So I had no knowledge at all and the timer is working:-) it was great fun building it and the questions which I had were answered here.


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I agree that it is very easy, and the autoloading of the sketch makes it very straightforward.

Amazon (and probably others) offers several prewired switches, with external covers and even on "on" LED and charge port, as well as square 4.8 V rechargeable packs like ones used for R/C models for persons who want plug and go for the power supply. (If the wires are not too long to fit inside the case.) But that will add some expense and the "on" led would add a little drain on the supply, but not too much.

For those people that are handy at programming, you might consider incorporating a sketch subroutine to check and display the battery pack voltage level either on command or at some periodic interval. But as Gunther stated in the instructions, the pack should last a long time.

2 notes on this:
- Any external LED might disturb your shooting at night, I'd always try to avoid that or at least tape it.
- You will notice that the batteries are getting weak long before they stop powering the device because the display contrast will then get a bit weaker. With a little experience, you don't need any battery indicator, you will just be able to tell.

Well, you really encouraged me. Will have to try!

Hi all! And thanks Gunther for this great idea and for sharing it for free i'm having a look in my gadgets box and i only have some optocouplers 'BC547' which i used in other project (triggertrap dongle) to shot my Canon7D with smartphone app. May i use this instead of the one you recomend in your DIY guide? Thanks!


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I may have missed something , but what would you think of incorporating an option of the Pro-timer to wait while looking for a trigger from a PC sync signal from the camera to indicate that the shutter had tripped and allow the timer could continue timing till the next frame? Then, as the shutter times increase as during a day/night transition session, the timer would not be stumbling over the shutter open time and effectively changing frame rates. The LRTimelapse Pro could incorporate this as an option and add one more jack (perhaps 3.5mm for differentiation) to look for the PC sync signal from the camera only when this option is turned on. But I may be trying to over complicate this. As long as the user increases the interval to coincide with the camera shutter time increases, should not be a problem as is.

i only have some optocouplers 'BC547' which i used in other project 

I used a Transistor instead of an Optocooupler, but an optocoupler should work too. Just check for the correct usage of the contact. You might have to change the resistor too, I'm not sure.
Easiest would be to get yourself one of those transistors, they are ridiculously cheap.