Awesome...I'll give that a try

I'm assuming you don't increase the ISO until the shutter duration comes close to the interval time. I'll have to find out using a Canon 5D2 how to change ISO quickly during a timelapse sequence...shutter is easy.

Hi,
for what it's worth, I studied this question for the 5d3 a few days ago and found out that the easiest way is using the custom function menu to put iso on the lower wheel, and changing iso increments from the usual 1/3 to 1/1. This way I only need to move the lower wheel once, much easier than the default setting - Iso menu and then three steps to the left/right (which was pretty much undoable for me in the 2.5sec interval, because the camera would also switch into the metering screen for the next shot before i was done adjusting the iso). Not sure if this is applicable for the 5d2 though.

Chris

This post was last modified: 2013-02-03, 14:34 by Gunther.

Thank you very much...I haven't gotten into the custom functions yet but will now.

This post was last modified: 2013-02-04, 23:38 by Gunther.

Well it appears the 5D2 does not allow you to assign the ISO to a dial or button, however with some practice you can pretty easily hit the ISO button and turn the dial to the next highest setting within a 3 second interval...maybe a 2 second interval.

Does anyone know on a 5D2 how to change the shutter and ISO settings on the fly during an active timelapse sequence?

I tested this over the weekend and was able to change the shutterspeed 90% of the time and never the ISO during a timelapse. Outside of an active timelapse it's no problem to quickly make these changes but for some reason, and probably due to limited processor resources while exposing images, it just won't let me make the necessary changes for a holy grail sequence.

Maybe you'll need longer intervals. Just add one second and try again. Usually with a normal interval timer it's no problem to change camera settings if the intervals are not too short.

Well I think manual ISO adjustments during a holy grail is a gonner with the 5D2. I've tried everything and can't get the ISO to adjust consistently. Unless there's some way to set ISO adjustments to a dial or button (on a 5D2) it's just not going to happen. There's too much going on in between shots for the camera to respond to pressing the button and then moving the dial.

Here's what I've tried:
- Both 3 and 4 second intervals
- Using Magic Lantern intervalometer
- Using external intervalometer without Magic Lantern even installed
- With photo Review Time off and with it on
- With lens turned 6mm and with the lens fully locked
- Using Live View and without Live View
- Using a CF 67MB/s 715x fast card

If there are people out there using a 5D2 successfully adjusting the ISO during 3 - 4 second intervals on a holy grail, I'd love to hear how they're doing it.

Maybe you'll need longer intervals. Just add one second and try again. Usually with a normal interval timer it's no problem to change camera settings if the intervals are not too short.

ML is no good idea when you have to adust things
Changing ISO is a matter of about 0,3s with 5d MII so 3s Interval with 1,5s exposure time may be not enought time to react - with 2/4s I made it a few tiimes whwn I remember correctly. You can push the ISO-button before the review is showing on the screen so there's enough time to use the dial wheel for changing the ISO.

Thank you...I'll try hitting the ISO button during the review and see what happens.

ML is no good idea when you have to adust things
Changing ISO is a matter of about 0,3s with 5d MII so 3s Interval with 1,5s exposure time may be not enought time to react - with 2/4s I made it a few tiimes whwn I remember correctly. You can push the ISO-button before the review is showing on the screen so there's enough time to use the dial wheel for changing the ISO.

Hi,
ive been shooting the 5D2 in M mode using a Satechi WTR wireless and now im learning how to use the TB3's intervalometer. I have been looking at ML to see if I really need to go that route so ive been interested in your post,keep posting thanks..
When ive setup, basically ive taken a few test shots to see if the histogram and overall shot looks good. that way I have iso and Tv set from the start. as the scene changes I have just adjusted the iso from the top button. Im not sure how many, but I think it gives you several stops to play with before the next iso change. Gunther talks about how drastic the iso changes are during the period of sunset and how you have to really keep on top of it. The iso change has worked good on long night exposures with 10 or 20 sec intervals between exposures to allow time for adjusting the iso. Then leaving 10 seconds in the day to night has helped give time between to adjust iso also. but if I were doing 1/125 shots with 1 sec intervals only a canon qualified ninja would be able to change iso and then switch to the camera back and use the joystick and quick control dial to readjust Tv. seems to me that would give different images different depths of field and if they are large changes, would be distracting. not to mention the different amount of light in. don't know if this helps but ill keep reading the post. I ll have to read up more on magic lantern.
steve

Thank you...I'll try hitting the ISO button during the review and see what happens.

You can hit it before the review - just for testing take a picture and hit the ISO-Button as fast as you can - you'll see when the cam is reacting and you can come very close to the shortest time possible.

@ Steve: All things you can read from Gunther refers to shooting in manual mode, which is the mode I think 99% of all timelapse-experts are using. When shooting in Tv from your cam and not using a bulbramping device ot the one within ML you'll get drastic flickering. Shooting manual you'll not change ISO and shutter speed at the same time. I'm raising shutter speed to the value I'd like at the end of the timelapse - normally 10-15s for a 20-30s interval and then begin to raise ISO. Both for not more than 1,5EV.
Also shooting day2night you'll normaly never shoot with a 1s-interval because of the epic length of the resulting timelipse - changing any value at this frequency is impossible - even as a "canon qualified ninja" ;-) - you can be happy if the 5D shoots continuous with 1a interval. O.K. - if you want to have dramatic changes in speed you have to do this ...