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#1 EY8MM
I have the problem with Spot removal. I am trying to keep my sensor clean but when you are on expeditions and change lenses dust spots are unavoidable.

I use spot removal tool on first image and it looked great. After rendering sequence this place is clearly visible. Probably because spot removal tool selecting incorrect place. It is getting worse when I use device to rotate and in fast moving clouds this spots are noticeable.

Any suggestion on settings during work flow?

Thank you!
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#2 gwegner
This is a common problem. Spot removal in LR is meant to be used on static images, where you won't see the stamping. As soon as you have a timelapse, you'll most likely see those spots. You can try to ease this a bit, by using a graduated filter over the area with the spots and reduce clarity and contrast - this might help a bit.

But it's always better to avoid to close the aperture too much and clean the sensor frequently when shooting timelapse. I also have some sequences ruined because of dust.
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#3 javajack
I have some spots on my sensor I need to repair. I find that if I use keyframes and clones this does not work and in fact I have to clone all images in the Lightroom library instead of just working on the LRT keyframe images. Would you agree this is the only way to deal with this situation? What would the workflow be?

Start by doing clone work on all images, then work on overall colour changes on the LRT keyframes in Lightroom?

Thanks for your help.
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#4 gwegner
If you clone single images in Lightroom you have to take care, that you don't overwrite those when applying the auto transition.
So best do it at the very end of the workflow, right before exporting - or force the auto transition to preserve the cloning by holding "shift" while pressing the button.

From my experience, all of that cloning does not really work for timelapse - because mostly you will see the clone spots in the moving clip. What sometimes help is a graduated filter over the sky (where you mosly see the spots) and reducing clarity / contrast on that filter to make the spots less visible. Of course, it depends on the scene, if this works.
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#5 javajack
Thanks for the response. I don't understand your comment about holding the button while applying the auto transition to preserve the clone? What button are you referring to? That would make things much easier if this worked. I developed a clone with several clone positions that works, but even while in develop mode, if I copy and paste only the clone parameters it will only do a single image at a time. You cannot shift click or select all, which would be ideal. This could be added to all frames at the beginning using the script to copy parameters to all frames before adjusting, but then exposure and everything gets adjusted, which could cause other issues. I think it would be best if I understood how to preserve these clones in auto transitions. I ended up copying and pasting these clones to 1900 individual frames and it took many hours to do so.
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#6 gwegner
As I said, hold the "Shift"-Key while pressing the Auto-Transition button. Make sure to have initialized the sequence in LRT before (that means you've done a regular workflow, starting in LRTimelapse. Don't use "fresh" images that have only been edited in Lightroom).
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#7 javajack
Okay, that's more clear. Thanks for clarifying. By the way, I'm very happy with my results in version 5. The second pass with accuracy set high seems to really smooth out the flicker completely. I use a Panasonic GH5 and the luminance steps are quite severe. I like using fixed shutter speed as I always have motion blur to make motion more realistic and not staccato. As a result the combination of ND filters, variable ISO and aperture allow me to go from day to night, but the aperture steps are big and very visible. Is there a better camera, more refined in terms of this stepping? As I say, I am happy with the results but only because LRT is so good at fixing these issues.
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#8 gwegner
All of the cameras that I know have minimum steps of 1/3 stops.
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