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Holy Grail with Olympus OM-D E-M1

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#1 LordZed
Hi!

I'm using an olympus om-d e-m1. So I cannot use qDSLR Dashboard to control my camera. Has anybody any experience how I can simplify the holy grail technique with olympus? What are you using for that system?

I tried to do it manually. I started the timelapse and when it got to dark, I stopped it, changed the settings and restarted the timelapse. That leads to some small jumps in the timelapse because the interval is not consistent in those moments and the possibility to change the camera position while changing the settings. The last could be solved by changing the settings via WiFi App.

I have a trigertrapp which supports bulb ramping, but only very linear if I'm not wrong. So it starts right away. It cannot start the ramping at a specific time.

What is the best way to get good footage to work with in LRTimelapse?

Regards,
Niklas
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#2 Gunther
Can't you just use an external interval timer to trigger the olympus an then just adjust Exposure/ISO with the dials on the camera? That would be the easiest. Bulb ramping is not a solution.
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#3 LordZed
I just bought one, so I will try it. Didn't think about such an easy solution :-D Thanks.
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#4 SaarPreme
You can use Camera Control for Holy Grail shots. https://rebs.biz/cc/de/index.html
Don't be afraid of the german website, software supports english too. On the 3rd page at "Remote Control" you can see the time lapse settings.
As far as I know "Camera Control" is the only way to shoot real holy grail with an olympus cam (wifi required).
I had connectivity issues at the beginning. Check the "use camera IP for communication"-box at the network settings.
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#5 teemlapse
Forgive me for a noobish question but what would be wrong with shooting in Aperture Priority along with the built-in timelapse app in Olympus? That's the way I've been doing it, then deflickering with lrtimelapse.
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#6 Gunther
Aperture priority might work in some situations, but it's not the recommend way, since you rely on the internal metering of the camera and that's not very reliable when it gets dark. Apart from that, you will only be ramping the exposure, not aperture and iso and you, you cannot define boundaries for the settings (for example to prevent the shutter time to get longer then the exposure) and you won't be able to intervene when the shots get too bright or too dark.

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