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Intervalometer blocks the camera for too long - how to get around it?

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#51 Not A Speck Of Cereal
Success for my first attempt with the timer hack, same colors as posted in the intervalometer hack video, Nikon camera with DC0 cable. I can change the exposure settings on the camera during any phase of the exposure/interval. 

I'm mainly posting to say that I could not find the Pixel TC252 for a reasonable price. Looking on Amazon, there were third-party offers for at least $60US.

So I took a chance on the $20US Pixel TC3 and it worked just as described (as mentioned, same colors). It also has plug-in cables available for a variety of camera types.

Thanks, Chris
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#52 Gunther
It would have been better to open up a new thread with a meningful name for the second part (question about your timer) - so that people can find it via search. If you do so, please edit this post and remove the part from this post. Thanks.
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#53 Nando Paz
hello everyone, I don't know about you, but my biggest difficulty in modifying was identifying the threads, knowing who is who. I saw that some colleagues even talked about using devices to identify ... I really don't know which device and I wouldn't even know how to use it. I don't know if it is already notorious, but in my trials and errors I developed a method of identifying the threads. My camera is Sony's a7III and therefore it is the same scheme as Nikon.
I will describe the test I did.
The main thing to know is that after cutting the intervalometer cable and connecting it to the camera, the AF wire connected to the Release makes the camera focus move. Strange that, because there is no electronic device connected to the camera, only the cable cut at the end.
I will represent in the example the three threads with RED, WHITE and YELLOW colors to simplify the understanding.
1º I turn the camera on with the AF on, connect half of the intervalometer cable to the camera and always watch the AF movement, pick up a random color, I'll use YELLOW, and connect to Red. IF nothing happens, I pick up the YELLOW again and touch the WHITE. If the AF turns on or moves, it means that I already know that red is GND and now I need to find the other two. I can already turn off the AF on the camera so that it doesn’t work (remember that the white and yellow connected makes it move)
2nd My goal now is to find out which of the two (white or yellow) is AF, because I need to know what color I will cut on the other side of the cable. The cable side of the camera is already defined, I will connect the white on the yellow and leave the red GND free To know I do the final test
3rd Turn on the Intervalometer with any interval (I left 2 seconds), connect the two red wires (GND) at both ends because this one I am sure of who it is, I choose one of the two colors to isolate (I chose yellow), double it as if I had cut it, and I connect the white to the other white + yellow side.
If the camera starts shooting, I bingo, otherwise, I take the wire that I isolated because I thought it would be the AF and change it with the white one.

But in my case it was yellow, even AF, and as soon as I connected the camera, it started shooting.

I confess to you that in my camera I didn't see much difference, I don't know if it's just in my camera, but the tests I did to connect the three pairs of wires and make the modification were very similar, with minimal difference. I was even in doubt if I had done the right thing.
If someone has already done it and found a different result, please tell me. Any questions I put myself at your disposal.
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#54 Gunther
Thanks for sharing your approach!

Sent mobile...
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#55 elvisdk
Hello all fellow timelapsers.

Got an A7R II with a Hahnel Captur trigger.
I've had numerous attempts to run a 1s interval with a low shutter with this intervalometer. (1/4000 - 1/3, doesnt make a difference) over a periode of time without luck

To try to find out what was wrong i did multiple tests with the following:
1 sec interval
Shutter 1/4000 - 1/3
Sony and Lexar UHS-II cards were used.
Manual focus
ISO 100
Card formatted after every test.
Hahnel Captur connected via cable (not wireless).
RAW, compressed (no JPG)

No matter what i did on the numerous configurations by the above settings, it never completed 300 of 300 pics, max was 273 of 300 pictures.

I then used the built-in Sony Memories Timelapse app, which succesfully did 300 picss every time, no matter what ISO and card i used, shutter speed was 1/3 sec. I would like to use this internal app but it has it's limits on 990 pictures, and this is not enough for me when shooting a night to day timelapse (here im shooting 1600-1700 pictures). I also cannont restart the timelapse app and run 990 pictures again, because there will be a large gap between 1st and 2nd run due to buffering.

This made me think of internal processing, what the timelapse app did or didnt which the intervalometer did. I then stumpled upon this thread.

I'm now thinking on making a USB adapter between the camera and intervalometer (instead of the mini-jack version which only will help on the Hahnel Captur), connected the way you are describing.
The reasong im making an adapter, is that i have 2 external intervalometers, the Hahnel Captur and a Ronin S, both with micro USB, then i would be able to eliminate the AF signal on both intervalometers.

What do you think about this idea ?

Best regards

...also check out: