Which exposure mode that you use?
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Manual mode is the best to avoid flicker. Shot with aperture wide open, this would reduce flicker as well and don't use short shutter-times (use ND-Filter if needed).
If you can't avoid it (dynamic range of the sequence exceeds the dynamic range of your camera), use Aperture Priority. Use spot metering on a spot that doesn't change by moving subjects, correct with +/-. Again shoot with wide open aperture to reduce aperture-flickering.
Deflicker afterwards with LRTimelapse.
Have fun!
If you can't avoid it (dynamic range of the sequence exceeds the dynamic range of your camera), use Aperture Priority. Use spot metering on a spot that doesn't change by moving subjects, correct with +/-. Again shoot with wide open aperture to reduce aperture-flickering.
Deflicker afterwards with LRTimelapse.
Have fun!
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(2011-05-08, 00:02)gwegner Wrote: Manual mode is the best to avoid flicker. Shot with aperture wide open, this would reduce flicker as well and don't use short shutter-times (use ND-Filter if needed).
If you can't avoid it (dynamic range of the sequence exceeds the dynamic range of your camera), use Aperture Priority. Use spot metering on a spot that doesn't change by moving subjects, correct with +/-. Again shoot with wide open aperture to reduce aperture-flickering.
Deflicker afterwards with LRTimelapse.
Have fun!
OK, I have the book and love it. But I'm still curious and uncertain if in Manual Mode you reset the ISO jumps physically (and carefully) on the camera, or do you use a remote control and/or tether to avoid camera vibration.
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I set them manually. Carefully. ;-)
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I tried shooting in automatic modes two times - once with ISO set to auto shooting some clouds over an island after the sun has disappeared but with fixed (opened) aperture and exposuretime and it worked quiet well after deflickerin with LRTimelapse.
In a day2night-approach with a little bit tricky place for the cam i tried it with also auto-ISO but with only the aperture fixed - the result is shown in the screenshot:
=> Don't do this, you will definitely not work with frames like the shown in postprocessing ;-)
I think it can work when there are only slow changes in ambient light - no headlights for example resulting in fast changes with influence to exposure you don't want.
In a day2night-approach with a little bit tricky place for the cam i tried it with also auto-ISO but with only the aperture fixed - the result is shown in the screenshot:
=> Don't do this, you will definitely not work with frames like the shown in postprocessing ;-)
I think it can work when there are only slow changes in ambient light - no headlights for example resulting in fast changes with influence to exposure you don't want.
