Hi,
I've just begun experimenting with LRTimelapse but I'm experiencing a problem with my Nikon D3100 and metering. As the sun sets it's impossible to use Gunther's recommended exposure change for the Holy Grail method (i.e., wait until the meter hits 1EV then reset to a neutral exposure) simply because my meter reading is fluctuating so wildly, sometimes by more than 2EV.
Metering is fine until c.30 minutes prior to sunset. Thereafter, it's just guesswork.
I recall using a Canon some years ago to do night-time photography without any problem, I think, but can't understand why I'm struggling with the Nikon.
Is there an obvious reason for this? I know exposure readings become increasingly variable at night but this is so extreme I'm at a loss to explain it.
Any help is much appreciated.
Best,
Ray
Please make sure that you use "Matrix-Metering" and an external interval timer to be able to make the adjustments.
(2013-04-02, 18:44)gwegner Wrote: [ -> ]Please make sure that you use "Matrix-Metering" and an external interval timer to be able to make the adjustments.
Hi Gunther,
Thanks for the quick reply. Yes, I considered the metering mode (I've tried all 3 on my camera including Matrix) and I use an external intervalometer as standard. This is my first time using a Nikon. Both of my Nikon lenses have the same trouble. In short, daylight photography is fine; night-time photography is impossible: the meter reading is going from 0EV to -1 and +2EV and then vice versa within a few seconds. I even thought of manually changing the exposure of the files in Lightroom prior to opening them in LRT. This is too problematic and time-consuming. I may have to try another camera manufacturer. Looks like a return to Canon beckons.
This is very frustrating as my problem is seemingly so simple. LRTimelapse in contrast has been easy to use. It's wonderfully intuitive. Doubtless questions will arise as I look into it more but, at the moment, I have nothing but praise for it.
Again, thanks for the help. I may have a problematic camera. I know you use Nikon so I may simply have been unlucky. They are a good make.
Best,
Ray
Then use the histogram, after hitting play between the shots, that should get you going. I mean - I never experienced that problems that you have, and I only shoot with nikons.
(2013-04-04, 19:41)gwegner Wrote: [ -> ]Then use the histogram, after hitting play between the shots, that should get you going. I mean - I never experienced that problems that you have, and I only shoot with nikons.
Hi Gunther,
Thanks for taking the time to answer. This would seem to be the best option. Even taking a reading the night prior to the shoot, recording the time and settings is possible too.
In truth, there is a huge degree of latitude for night-time shooting. No need to be exact. Perhaps that's my problem, I'm trying to obtain perfection prior to processing. Giving myself less work to do in Lightroom is all to the good, but I'm taking it to extremes.
Cheers,
Ray
It is easier to read your metering but how exact can histogram be in your camera to read exposure value changes between each shot?
If you have the sun or some other light source or reflection in your frame... yes, the meter can go crazy. If you have a average daylight scene, or night scene without extraneous light coming in, and the meter is going crazy; you probably have a metering problem in the camera.
Be careful of light coming in through the eyepiece of the camera. That can throw the meter off as well. As you lean in and back out the exposure can change dramatically if this is where the problem is. Especially true in darker scenarios.
d