This post was last modified: 2013-01-18, 12:36 by Gunther.

This is a video I made very quickly to show you how to easy it is to make Holy Grail Sequences with LRTimelapse 2!

UPDATE: Check out the new video in the tutorials section!

Hi gwegner,
really clear and useful tutorial, and no prob for audio, not studio quality but understandable.
But you made me courious, you are on your car? with that bg? what car is it? a camper i think nice place to record a tutorial, and nice place to stay at all ))
thank you for tutorial

Hi Screamer, it's a Citroen Jumper with Camping Facilities. A real nice mobile office - especially when the cam is outside shooting time lapse
I'll have to work on my audio-setup however... I had plugged in my sennheiser but somehow it captured the audio from my internal mic anyway with all that fan noise. You can clearly hear when the computer is working

You can clearly hear when the computer is working

ahahah yes, the first time i've hearded i tought was a moto outside

Gunther, this is exactly the tutorial I was looking for this week because I have some holy grail plans for later in the week.

Just one question... I'm assuming that when you make the ISO jumps while capturing the holy grail sequence, you have to move very fast to change the iso parameter on the camera during the interval. If the interval between shots is only 2-3 seconds that makes holding down the iso button and spinning the wheel a fairly challenging task, especially without bumping the camera at all. Do you have any suggestions or tips about this part of the capturing process?

Given how powerful this is, and how great the high-iso performance of my D4 is, I don't actually see any need to use bulb-ramping to accomplish this.

-g

Just one question... I'm assuming that when you make the ISO jumps while capturing the holy grail sequence, you have to move very fast to change the iso parameter on the camera during the interval. If the interval between shots is only 2-3 seconds that makes holding down the iso button and spinning the wheel a fairly challenging task, especially without bumping the camera at all. Do you have any suggestions or tips about this part of the capturing process?

Yes this is a bit tricky. Normally we shoot with intervals a bit longer, say 5 secs so you still have one or two secs for the camera to stabilize after touching it.
Make sure you know exactly in which direction you have to turn the wheen an how many clicks. Normally 3 clicks is one full stop. So I like to adjust in full stops. And then it's timing and a little bit of practice.

Given how powerful this is, and how great the high-iso performance of my D4 is, I don't actually see any need to use bulb-ramping to accomplish this.

Actually I never use bulb ramping.

This post was last modified: 2012-08-14, 09:11 by Gunther.

Actually I never use bulb ramping.

Theoretically speaking, with bulb ramping you can obtain better results because really when you adjust an overexposed (or most of time underexposed) shot with the "holy grail method", the risk is to gain up the noise too. With the bulb ramping every frame is quite already well exposed for the light of that moment. Anyway this is only speculation, and looking at you holy grail timelapses i must admit that i don't see noise or other things, and they are fantastic, so it's perfect that way.
But with bulb ramping and the fantastic deflickering of LRTimelapse the results are also pretty good. And for all those people that have a canon (i know you are nikon oriented can take a lot of shooting facilities installing magiclantern, the alternative firmware with a lot of functions such of bulb ramping, focus ramping and a lot of other interesting things for timelapsers

This post was last modified: 2012-08-14, 09:18 by Gunther.

Theoretically speaking, with bulb ramping you can obtain better results because really when you adjust an overexposed (or most of time underexposed) shot with the "holy grail method", the risk is to gain up the noise too.

It depends how you do it. You must not wait till the frames get too dark, obviously.

The problem with bulp ramping is to mirror the real world situation. If you rely on luminance measurements you'll introduce flicker or unwanted changes again and if you use linear ramping it won't match the reality either. Every sunset / sunrise is different in terms of brightness changes. So you are kind of "blind" after programming your device. To have the ability to react manually is a great asset and leads to better results in my opinion.

With the bulb ramping every frame is quite already well exposed for the light of that moment.

To here comes the question: what is the Light of the Moment? If you think so you could even shoot your Sequence in P or A. But that would give you severe flicker. Imagine a cloud covering the sun for a couple of frames - your sequence would be ruined.

Hy i`m really new to this I tried to shoot multiple timelapses but until i saw that trick with match total exposure in lightroom i did not make a good time laps here are my tests.
[Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BzxdkgqoY...plpp_video]

I will re process the pictures right away and see what happens this is shot aperture priority, and it`s day to night

Okay, so then make the next sequence with my approach and I'm sure you'll see a big improvement! ;-)