This post was last modified: 2015-11-14, 02:20 by MattT.

Hey guys,

Firstly many thanks to Gunther for this amazing software. 

I've attempted a couple of holygrail timelapse, they work nearly perfectly.  When changing shutter speed, or ISO, all is good.

I'm using a rokinon 14mm Cine DS manual lens with de-clicked aperture.  Once the sun gets down, I have been opening up the aperture manually.

I noticed that LRTimelapse didn't notice these changes (to be expected) so I manually added the left and right holygrail keyframes.  But this didn't didn't help, and a big jump in exposure remained.

When manually entering in aperture values, before and after the change, this helps to a degree.  But there is still a jump, as the aperture values don't match exactly what I set.

So here's my question.

Should I avoid manually changing my aperture all together? And just go with shutter speed and ISO?  OR will I be okay if I use ONLY the selectable apertures f/4 f/5.6 f/8 etc?  Although with my declicked aperture, this would be hard to get exact...

I would ideally like to change the aperture so I can drag the shutter etc.

Second question.

Towards the end of my timelapse, it crossed my mind that I could very very slightly change my aperture as it was de clicked, to slowly open it as it got darker, trying to keep the light levels the same.  so rather than big jumps, it should be pretty smooth, and then hopefully de flickered okay.  Is this a good technique / idea or a bad one?

I'm assuming similar could be done with a ND grad filter.

Thanks so much for your help!
Matt

This post was last modified: 2015-11-14, 11:08 by Gunther.

You've figured it out: the reason is, that LRT does not get Exif Data about the aperture. Even if you use the lens tagger, you probably won't be able to enter the exact values when using a declicked lens.
I'd just do rather smaller adjustments to the lens and then use the HG-Wizard for the Shutter and ISO, and the Rotate slider to get the curve near the horiontal center line. Visual delicker will then remove the residual jumps that came from the exposure adjustments.

BTW: please do not use ND-faders! They will cause nasty shading effects when strongly dimmed, that you won't be able to remove.

Thanks so much for your reply and information!

I guess I'll be sure to leave that aperture alone...., unless I'm feeling very brave (or stupid!) lol, and be sure to only use the aperture values which are available to select from the LRtimelapse software, and be sure to try and line up the F stop marks exactly!

Small adjustments sound good to me, and then delicker. I've been giving the dslrdashboard a try for the auto holygrail and it seems great so far.

Thanks for the advice on the ND faders!

Cheers!