When shooting a time-lapse during the day when the light is not changing much but there is lots of cloud cover so the sun is constantly popping in and out, would you recommend still shooting manually and monitoring the screen then adjusting the shutter or ISO?

No, in that case I don't adjust. I shoot manual and rely on the depth of my raw files. Then I deflicker in LRTimelapse. But usually those scenes don't make for good time lapses anyway.

Do you tend to shoot with LiveView (or Nikon equivalent) so you can see each shot once it is taken? Heard this can drain battery quite a lot.

No, I don't use Live view normally.

Also, how would you approach shooting a 24 hour time-lapse? Still Manual? When would you sleep! ;o)

Yes manual. You only have to adjust during sunrise and sunset. So you can still sleep quite the whole night - just make sure to have enough battery power and free memory on your card
Many thanks again
[/quote]

Hi Gunther,

What's your mobile solution for battery power when shooting sequences that stretches over a period more than a single battery can manage?

For example, mt 7D can only shoot around 400 RAW files by 5°C.

Thanks in advance!

Normally I don't run into this problems because my Nikons shoot way more images with one battery. Options would be either a battery grip or an external power supply. You could even experiment with changing batteries while shooting, you'll have to try if the camera remembers all settings.

This post was last modified: 2012-12-31, 18:57 by ngblume.

Since this is slightly related to the holy grail topic, I will post my question here.

I shot a time-lapse through a window with some reflections. I fixed that very early in the process of shooting it.
To keep it simple I imported these as well and set a good reference area (white cupboard always fully illuminated with a light).
When I ran the Keyframes Wizard, something seemingly strange happened.
At the positions LRTimelapse detected the need for a holy grail keyframe, it inserted multiple left side (2-star) keyframes followed by one right-hand (3-star) keyframe.

What is the reason for this and how can it be fixed or is this necessary?
I fixed it so far by simply removing one or two frames so, that only one left-hand keyframe was inserted.. But that doesn't seem to be the perfect way to do this..

More generally:
What is the difference between
- default keyframe (1-star)
- Keyframe 4 (4-star)
- Keyframe 5 (5-star)
?

EDIT: One more question:
I was looking for an explanation what exactly what symbol in front of of each row or around the number of the frame means, but couldn't find one. Could someone please point me in the direction of whre to find such a description (I mean, that some numbers are red background, some have red borders plus the signs for Keyframe 4 or 5...)

Thanks and happy New Year everyone !

Kind regards
Niels Göran

EDIT: Forgot the attachment

Hi, currently the keyframe wizard detects changes in brightness in the image. if there is real severe flickering it could fail as in your example.
In that case just refine the keyframes be deleting the unnecessary ones.

The one star keyframe is a normal one.
2 and 3 stars are for Holy Grail "jumps"
4 and 5 stars are arbitrary, there is no further logic involved for the different types of keyframes.

Regarding the "symbols":
Red background means unsaved
Red border means reference area set to that frame (useful if you need to animate the reference area) -> all this is explained in detail in my EBook, see below!

Hey Gunther,

thank you for the clarification.
Regarding the symbols, I haven't read the book that far yet... Sorry for the iteration..

Kind regards
Niels Göran

Sir Gwegner,

I'm shot a timelapse in Aperture-Priority. And I finding very hard to set the 2-star (begining key frame) and 3-star (ending key frame) at the jumps to deflickr, because there are so many jumps.

1. 1 Do you recommend shooting Holy-Grail (day to night or vice-versa) in Aperture-Priority Mode?
   
2. 2 If I shoot Holy-Grail in M Mode, each time I change the shutter speed will I have
   put (beginning and ending key frames) at all those points?
   

I have attached a screenshot. If you need more information my side, let me know.
This was a test so I shot in jpeg.

Hi,
the Holy Grail approach is not meant to be used with sequences shot in Aperture Priority!

It's a sophisticated approach to be used in manual mode when manually changing Shutterspeed/ISO, clearly outlined in the tutorial video, see: http://lrtimelapse.com/tutorial

If you shot in aperture priority just use the deflicker feature, no Holy Grail Keyframes!!

All the best
Gunther

Hi,
the Holy Grail approach is not meant to be used with sequences shot in Aperture Priority!

It's a sophisticated approach to be used in manual mode when manually changing Shutterspeed/ISO, clearly outlined in the tutorial video, see: http://lrtimelapse.com/tutorial

If you shot in aperture priority just use the deflicker feature, no Holy Grail Keyframes!!

All the best
Gunther

I followed your instructions but it does not seems to work. I may be wrong somewhere.

I'm attaching the current screenshot after deflickering. Please guide me.
Thank your for your prompt reply.
And also, should ever shoot in Av Mode in the future? do you recommend or
just use the M mode?

Hi,
the Holy Grail approach is not meant to be used with sequences shot in Aperture Priority!

It's a sophisticated approach to be used in manual mode when manually changing Shutterspeed/ISO, clearly outlined in the tutorial video, see: http://lrtimelapse.com/tutorial

If you shot in aperture priority just use the deflicker feature, no Holy Grail Keyframes!!

All the best
Gunther

I have followed all of your (3) latest tutorials and also the third party tutorials by
Serge Ramelli.

I tried bigger reference area, smaller reference area but did not included the moving
vehicles, nothing removes flickering.