Posts: 26
Threads: 11
Joined: Feb 2013
My questions relate to generating the Holy Grail of time lapse sequences, sunlight into night and for me, I am shooting into the sun at sunset, with the sun in the frame.
I am roughly shooting from 1/100th, ISO100 every 6 seconds, through to 30 second exposures, ISO3200. I use a Nikon internal Intervalometer on the D7000. Aperture is set to F9.
After trying this out over a number of time lapse trials, I have many questions and a number of observations. Any comments are welcome.
At the beginning, I am shooting 10fpm, while at night, its 1-2, so when rendering into a sequence at 24fps, the night time speeds up. Any ideas on how to overcome the speeding up of time over the entire sequence?
The number of changes from day to night, either speed or ISO can be a lot, especially if clouds are running across the skies too. It may be that the Nikon internal intervalometer is not flexible enough, but is there an easy way to step-change across this range of settings?
Whilst I am very experienced in taking sunset shots, taking images for a sequence complicates matters. I may use techniques for a single frame that cannot be easily applied to multiple images e.g. blending. So how would you approach shooting into the setting sun? I use graduated filters, but the resulting exposure change when you remove or change the filter can cause un-editable jumps. And if using these, would you step from 3-stop, to 2-stop, to 1-stop, to none? Or just not use them at all?
I usually use the histogram to ensure the camera is capturing the maximum about of data, resulting in the best picture possible in post processing and when shooting n RAW, use the 'expose to the right' method. However, at some point, as the light fades and the exposure lengthens, the histogram cannot be viewed on the back panel due to the time interval/writing to the memory card, so at that point what do you do? (In the recent tutorial, you mention you underexpose your shots to stop any blown out highlights).
Lastly, regarding night shots, does anyone have any advice on reducing noise? At 30secs, ISO3200, there is noticeable noise, even after reducing it in Lightroom. I would also normally shoot at F2.8 for star shots, but again the Nikon intervalometer doesn't allow aperture changes during the shooting sequence.
Any advice gratefully received.
I am roughly shooting from 1/100th, ISO100 every 6 seconds, through to 30 second exposures, ISO3200. I use a Nikon internal Intervalometer on the D7000. Aperture is set to F9.
After trying this out over a number of time lapse trials, I have many questions and a number of observations. Any comments are welcome.
At the beginning, I am shooting 10fpm, while at night, its 1-2, so when rendering into a sequence at 24fps, the night time speeds up. Any ideas on how to overcome the speeding up of time over the entire sequence?
The number of changes from day to night, either speed or ISO can be a lot, especially if clouds are running across the skies too. It may be that the Nikon internal intervalometer is not flexible enough, but is there an easy way to step-change across this range of settings?
Whilst I am very experienced in taking sunset shots, taking images for a sequence complicates matters. I may use techniques for a single frame that cannot be easily applied to multiple images e.g. blending. So how would you approach shooting into the setting sun? I use graduated filters, but the resulting exposure change when you remove or change the filter can cause un-editable jumps. And if using these, would you step from 3-stop, to 2-stop, to 1-stop, to none? Or just not use them at all?
I usually use the histogram to ensure the camera is capturing the maximum about of data, resulting in the best picture possible in post processing and when shooting n RAW, use the 'expose to the right' method. However, at some point, as the light fades and the exposure lengthens, the histogram cannot be viewed on the back panel due to the time interval/writing to the memory card, so at that point what do you do? (In the recent tutorial, you mention you underexpose your shots to stop any blown out highlights).
Lastly, regarding night shots, does anyone have any advice on reducing noise? At 30secs, ISO3200, there is noticeable noise, even after reducing it in Lightroom. I would also normally shoot at F2.8 for star shots, but again the Nikon intervalometer doesn't allow aperture changes during the shooting sequence.
Any advice gratefully received.
